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SeptemberBP

Sewing Pattern

Gabrielle Jacket

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Remember Coco Chanel's advice, ‘Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they remember the woman,’ while stitching this jacket by Amanda Walker. The construction is straightforward, thanks to the absence of a collar and darts. Bouclé is a great fabric for a first attempt at a jacket as the textured surface is forgiving to little mistakes, but it is bulkier than other fabrics so remember to lift your presser foot regularly to prevent bunching and clip those corners.

  • Gabrielle Jacket
  • Gabrielle Jacket
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Essentials
  1. Bouclé fabric, 1.2m x 1.5m
  2. Lining fabric, 1.2m x 1.5m
  3. Shoulder pads
  4. Coordinating thread
Dimensions List
  1. Small (8-10): Bust 88cm
  2. Medium (10-12): Bust 92cm
  3. Large (12-14): Bust 96cm
  4. Cutting guide
  5. Front: cut one pair each in fabric and lining
  6. Back: cut one on fold each in fabric and lining
  7. Sleeve: cut one pair each in fabric and lining
  8. Pocket: cut two each in fabric and lining
  9. 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

Sew a jacket

    1 Download and print the jacket pattern. Cut out all of the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. Snip 3cm wide strips of bouclé fabric along the selvedge, then fray the cut edge. Trim as required for the jacket edges.

    2 Lay a strip along the top edge of a bouclé pocket piece, frayed edge pointing inwards, then tack in place within the seam allowance. Place the coordinating lining piece on top, with right sides together. Pin and stitch around, leaving one side open for turning. Clip the corners, turn out, and press.

    3 Repeat step two to make a second pocket, turning through the opposite side. Line up the raw, open edge of one pocket with the outer edge of a bouclé front piece, 1.5cm from the base, then pin in place. Repeat with the other pocket and front piece. Topstitch 1mm in along the base and front side of each.

    4 Line up the bouclé front and back pieces with right sides together. Match the shoulder edges, pin, stitch together, then press the seams open. Do the same with the side seams, then repeat the process with the lining pieces.

    5 Position and pin strips of frayed fabric to the right side of the bouclé fabric edges around the neckline, front edges and base of the jacket, with the frayed edge facing inwards. Tack in place within the seam allowance.

    6 Adjust the stitch length to 5mm. Make a row of gathering stitches around the head of the sleeves, starting at the front notch and finishing at the back one. Match, pin, then stitch the underarm seams together with right sides facing. Press the seams open. Pull up the gathering stitches slightly, then place into the armholes, matching the notches.

    7 Match together the side seam of the body and underarm seam of the sleeves, then pin in place. Stitch the sleeves onto the body. Tack a strip of frayed fabric around the cuff of each sleeve. Hand stitch the shoulder pads in place. Assemble the sleeve lining pieces in the same way, then stitch into the body of the jacket lining.

    8 Turn the jacket outer to the right side, leaving the lining unturned. Match and pin the neckline and front edges. Clip the corners and make notches around the neckline. Turn the lining inside the jacket, then understitch around the neckline and down each front edge.

    9 Match the ends of the sleeve lining and outer pieces, then stitch in place. Turn the lining and jacket inside out. Line up both layers at the base of the jacket and stitch across, leaving a gap in the centre of the back. Clip the corners, then turn out through the gap. Hand stitch the gap closed, then press the entire jacket.

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Gabrielle Jacket
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Essentials
  1. Bouclé fabric, 1.2m x 1.5m
  2. Lining fabric, 1.2m x 1.5m
  3. Shoulder pads
  4. Coordinating thread
Dimensions List
  1. Small (8-10): Bust 88cm
  2. Medium (10-12): Bust 92cm
  3. Large (12-14): Bust 96cm
  4. Cutting guide
  5. Front: cut one pair each in fabric and lining
  6. Back: cut one on fold each in fabric and lining
  7. Sleeve: cut one pair each in fabric and lining
  8. Pocket: cut two each in fabric and lining
  9. 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

Sew a jacket

    1 Download and print the jacket pattern. Cut out all of the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. Snip 3cm wide strips of bouclé fabric along the selvedge, then fray the cut edge. Trim as required for the jacket edges.

    2 Lay a strip along the top edge of a bouclé pocket piece, frayed edge pointing inwards, then tack in place within the seam allowance. Place the coordinating lining piece on top, with right sides together. Pin and stitch around, leaving one side open for turning. Clip the corners, turn out, and press.

    3 Repeat step two to make a second pocket, turning through the opposite side. Line up the raw, open edge of one pocket with the outer edge of a bouclé front piece, 1.5cm from the base, then pin in place. Repeat with the other pocket and front piece. Topstitch 1mm in along the base and front side of each.

    4 Line up the bouclé front and back pieces with right sides together. Match the shoulder edges, pin, stitch together, then press the seams open. Do the same with the side seams, then repeat the process with the lining pieces.

    5 Position and pin strips of frayed fabric to the right side of the bouclé fabric edges around the neckline, front edges and base of the jacket, with the frayed edge facing inwards. Tack in place within the seam allowance.

    6 Adjust the stitch length to 5mm. Make a row of gathering stitches around the head of the sleeves, starting at the front notch and finishing at the back one. Match, pin, then stitch the underarm seams together with right sides facing. Press the seams open. Pull up the gathering stitches slightly, then place into the armholes, matching the notches.

    7 Match together the side seam of the body and underarm seam of the sleeves, then pin in place. Stitch the sleeves onto the body. Tack a strip of frayed fabric around the cuff of each sleeve. Hand stitch the shoulder pads in place. Assemble the sleeve lining pieces in the same way, then stitch into the body of the jacket lining.

    8 Turn the jacket outer to the right side, leaving the lining unturned. Match and pin the neckline and front edges. Clip the corners and make notches around the neckline. Turn the lining inside the jacket, then understitch around the neckline and down each front edge.

    9 Match the ends of the sleeve lining and outer pieces, then stitch in place. Turn the lining and jacket inside out. Line up both layers at the base of the jacket and stitch across, leaving a gap in the centre of the back. Clip the corners, then turn out through the gap. Hand stitch the gap closed, then press the entire jacket.

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