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June 2018
June 2018

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Sewing Pattern

No-Pattern Midi Skirt

Garments Skirts
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This beautiful flowing skirt is perfect for so many occasions. It can be made to your precise measurements, so you know it will flatter your figure. Dress it up for a special occasion or down for a relaxed feel, and always feel pretty. Use a soft cotton lawn or why not try a silk for a luxe look?

  • No-Pattern Midi Skirt
  • No-Pattern Midi Skirt
  • No-Pattern Midi Skirt
  • No-Pattern Midi Skirt
  • No-Pattern Midi Skirt
  • No-Pattern Midi Skirt
  • No-Pattern Midi Skirt
  • No-Pattern Midi Skirt
Essentials
  1. Cotton lawn print, 3m (140cm wide)
  2. Lining fabric, 3m (140cm wide)
  3. Fusible lightweight interfacing
  4. Concealed zip, 22cm
  5. Hook and bar fastening
  6. Coordinating thread
Dimensions List
  1. Custom-sized

Stitch your skirt

    Formula: To help you get the perfect fit, you need to find the radius of the circle that will become your waistband. Follow the formula to calculate this measurement:

    Take your waist measurement for the circumference (C)

    4 x 1.5cm = 6cm for the seam allowance (SA)

    (C + SA) ÷ 3.14 = diameter (D)

    (D ÷ 2) – 1.5cm = radius

    Example formula: C 66cm + SA 6cm = 72cm

    72cm ÷ 3.14 = D 22.9cm

    22.9cm ÷ 2 = 11.45cm – 1.5cm = 9.95cm radius

    1 Use the formula and diagrams above to calculate and draw the pattern for the outer circle skirt. Fold your fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge. Mark the radius on your fabric as points A and B at the bottom fold and join with a curve. Decide how long you would like the skirt to be, adding 1cm for a hem and 1.5cm seam allowance. Mark this as points C and D and join with a curve.

    2 Cut two pieces of fabric on the fold, plus two more from lining, 3cm shorter. Cut a 9cm wide strip from the print to your waist measurement, plus 5cm. Fuse this piece with interfacing and neaten one long edge.

    3 Lay the two outer pieces together, right sides facing, so that the selvedge of both becomes the side seams. Stitch with a 1.5cm seam allowance down the entire length of both, leaving a gap of 20cm at the top of one to insert the zip. Press the seams open.

    4 To stitch the concealed zip, fold and press the seam allowance along both sides of the opening. Open it out again, and with the right side of the fabric facing, place the opened zip face down, matching the teeth to the crease line. Pin and stitch in place. Repeat for the other side. Carefully thread the zip pull through to the right side and close the fastening.

    5 Make the lining up in the same way as the outer skirt, leaving the top 20cm of the side seam open on one side. Fold and press as before. Place it inside the skirt, matching the side seams and waistline. Slipstitch the lining to the inside edge of the zip, then machine stitch the outer and lining skirts together around the waistline with a 1cm seam allowance.

    6 Lay the waistband around the edge of the waistline right sides facing, with 1.5cm extending from the left-hand side of the zip and 3.5cm from the right. Pin in place, then stitch together with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Press the waistband back, away from the skirt, then fold it in half right sides facing and stitch down the excess fabric at each short end.

    7 Trim the corners, then turn the waistband to the right side, pushing the corners into shape. The raw edge should lay up inside the waistband. Pin, then secure by stitching the seam between the fabric and the waistband on the right side of the skirt.

    8 Hang the skirt up for at least a day to let the fabric settle. The hem will become uneven and will need to be levelled again by trimming away any excess length. Stitch a rolled hem around the skirt and lining. Sew a hook and bar to the ends of the waistband to fasten.

    Tip: If using a concealed zipper foot, place the teeth of the zip into the groove and as you stitch, the foot will uncurl the teeth and the stitching will be placed right alongside. It is impossible to sew to the end of a concealed zip, so leave approximately 2.5cm of the base unstitched. Always back stitch to secure.

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No-Pattern Midi Skirt
Essentials
  1. Cotton lawn print, 3m (140cm wide)
  2. Lining fabric, 3m (140cm wide)
  3. Fusible lightweight interfacing
  4. Concealed zip, 22cm
  5. Hook and bar fastening
  6. Coordinating thread
Dimensions List
  1. Custom-sized

Stitch your skirt

    Formula: To help you get the perfect fit, you need to find the radius of the circle that will become your waistband. Follow the formula to calculate this measurement:

    Take your waist measurement for the circumference (C)

    4 x 1.5cm = 6cm for the seam allowance (SA)

    (C + SA) ÷ 3.14 = diameter (D)

    (D ÷ 2) – 1.5cm = radius

    Example formula: C 66cm + SA 6cm = 72cm

    72cm ÷ 3.14 = D 22.9cm

    22.9cm ÷ 2 = 11.45cm – 1.5cm = 9.95cm radius

    1 Use the formula and diagrams above to calculate and draw the pattern for the outer circle skirt. Fold your fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge. Mark the radius on your fabric as points A and B at the bottom fold and join with a curve. Decide how long you would like the skirt to be, adding 1cm for a hem and 1.5cm seam allowance. Mark this as points C and D and join with a curve.

    2 Cut two pieces of fabric on the fold, plus two more from lining, 3cm shorter. Cut a 9cm wide strip from the print to your waist measurement, plus 5cm. Fuse this piece with interfacing and neaten one long edge.

    3 Lay the two outer pieces together, right sides facing, so that the selvedge of both becomes the side seams. Stitch with a 1.5cm seam allowance down the entire length of both, leaving a gap of 20cm at the top of one to insert the zip. Press the seams open.

    4 To stitch the concealed zip, fold and press the seam allowance along both sides of the opening. Open it out again, and with the right side of the fabric facing, place the opened zip face down, matching the teeth to the crease line. Pin and stitch in place. Repeat for the other side. Carefully thread the zip pull through to the right side and close the fastening.

    5 Make the lining up in the same way as the outer skirt, leaving the top 20cm of the side seam open on one side. Fold and press as before. Place it inside the skirt, matching the side seams and waistline. Slipstitch the lining to the inside edge of the zip, then machine stitch the outer and lining skirts together around the waistline with a 1cm seam allowance.

    6 Lay the waistband around the edge of the waistline right sides facing, with 1.5cm extending from the left-hand side of the zip and 3.5cm from the right. Pin in place, then stitch together with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Press the waistband back, away from the skirt, then fold it in half right sides facing and stitch down the excess fabric at each short end.

    7 Trim the corners, then turn the waistband to the right side, pushing the corners into shape. The raw edge should lay up inside the waistband. Pin, then secure by stitching the seam between the fabric and the waistband on the right side of the skirt.

    8 Hang the skirt up for at least a day to let the fabric settle. The hem will become uneven and will need to be levelled again by trimming away any excess length. Stitch a rolled hem around the skirt and lining. Sew a hook and bar to the ends of the waistband to fasten.

    Tip: If using a concealed zipper foot, place the teeth of the zip into the groove and as you stitch, the foot will uncurl the teeth and the stitching will be placed right alongside. It is impossible to sew to the end of a concealed zip, so leave approximately 2.5cm of the base unstitched. Always back stitch to secure.

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