This stylish skirt by Amanda Walker features three pleats across the front and back, and one on each side seam. It also has handy in-seam pockets and a centre back zip. The best thing is you can make it to your own measurements. Simply follow the formula to enable you to cut the skirt to your size. There are just three pieces and the waistband is finished with a bias strip.
- Custom sized
Sew a pleated skirt
1 To calculate the width of your front skirt, take your waist measurement and divide it by two. Add three full pleats at 12cm each (36cm total) and two half pleats at 6cm each (12cm total), plus two seam allowances at 1.5cm each (3cm total). For the length, measure from your waistline to the desired length, then add 8cm to the top as the skirt sits above the waistline and 4cm for the hem.
2 For the back skirt, take your half waist measurement and divide by two. Add one full pleat at 12cm and two half pleats, one for the side seam and one for the centre back, at 6cm each (12cm total), plus two 1.5cm seam allowances (3cm total). This becomes the width of half the back skirt. The length is the same as the front.
3 Using the measurements you have calculated, cut out one front and two back pieces from fabric. Download and print the pocket templates and cut two pairs from fabric. Snip an 8cm wide bias strip to your waist measurement, plus 3cm. Cut three strips of fusible interfacing, 8cm x the width of each of the skirt pieces. Fuse to the top edges of all three to reinforce the waist.
4 Stitch the back pieces together, right sides facing with a 1.5cm seam allowance, leaving a gap of 23cm unstitched at the top of the seam. Press the centre back seam open, then insert a zip. Fold then stitch a full pleat into the centre front of the skirt [Diagram 1, above] and two half pleats on either side of the zip at the back [Diagram 2, above]. The stitching lines should be 8cm deep.
5 With right sides facing and raw edges aligned, position the pockets at the front and back skirt side seams, 12cm down from the top edge. Pin and stitch with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Press the pockets out away from the side seams. With the right sides of the front and back pieces facing, match the side seams and pockets together and pin. Stitch from one top edge down, around the pockets, and continue down the remainder of the side seam to the base. Repeat on the other side.
6 Stitch the two half pleats on either side of the seam, angling the stitching line slightly towards the fold of the pleat [Diagram 3, above]. Sew the remaining two pleats into the front and back, positioning them equally between the centre and side seam pleats. Flatten and press, making sure that they’re equal on either side of the stitching line.
7 With the right sides of the bias strip and the top of the skirt facing, stitch the strip in place with a 1cm seam allowance, leaving 1.5cm protruding from either side of the zip. Understitch the top edge seam, then press the strip to the inside of the skirt and sew by hand. Fold the ends of the bias strip in, then slip stitch to the inside of the zip. Fold and press up 4cm at the hem and hand stitch in place.