January 2019 Subs
January 2019 Subs
Crash course on creating collars
Crash course on creating collars

Top tips on creating crisp collars

  1. A collar has three layers: the top layer, called the collar or upper collar, the bottom section, named the under collar or facing, and the interfacing in between. Some collars are made in one piece, where the under collar is an extension of the upper collar, so the outer edge is a fold rather than a seam.

  2. In most cases, the interfacing is fused to the upper collar so that it acts as a cushion against all of the seam allowances. To reduce bulk, trim away 1.3cm from around the edges of the interfacing before applying it to the wrong side of the upper collar sections.

  3. With the fabric pieces right sides together, start sewing at the centre back and work towards one front edge. Start at the centre back again to stitch the other side of the collar. At corners or sharp curves, use a smaller stitch for 2.5cm either side. For very sharp corners, take one stitch diagonally across the point.

  4. This is an important step to ensure a professional looking, crisp collar. Grade the seam allowances by cutting the under collar allowance to 3mm and the upper one to 6mm. Notch curved collars by taking little wedge shapes out of the seam allowance and cut corners at an angle close to the stitching.

  5. Before turning the collar out, iron on both sides. Then press the seam allowances open with the under collar side facing up. Turn through using a point turner. Press the collar again.

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