Improve Your Rolled Hems
Guarantee flowing hemlines that hang like a dream. Keen dressmaker Sarah Greeff has colourful memories of her first attempts at making a rolled hem. “I was first asked to make rolled hems for a colleague at Fenwick of Bond Street, a lovely Thai lady who h
-
Make sure your hands are clean and nails smooth. Check the needle is thin and sharp and use a fine thread in the same colour; a contrasting shade is used here so it’s easier to follow. Secure the end and run a medium length through your fingers to prevent slip knots, then thread the needle.
-
After ensuring the edge is straight, fold over 5mm and press with your fingers. Use a pin to anchor one end into an ironing board. Slide the needle along the inside of the fold for 2cm. Take one-three threads (depending on fabric delicacy) 5mm below the fold, then continue for 6cm.
-
Gently pull the thread tight so the fabric folds over itself. You can use damp fingers to roll the material first, then sew in the same manner. Make a couple of tiny backstitches on the rolled part of the fabric, slide your thread backwards for 3cm inside the roll, then pull and snip so that the end is enclosed.
More Helpful Tips...
Shape Up Your Sleeves
Give extra shape to frocks and tops with this handy sleeve enhancement. You can easily add interest to the head of the sleeve, and how it travels over the top of the arm, simply by using tucks, gathers, pleats and darts. Each of these will require a sligh
Know Your Overlocking
Get to grips with the best overlocking finishes for everyday stitching. The overlocker has a different feel to a regular sewing machine. The trick is to let the feed dog guide the fabric. Use your right hand to support the edge of the material, taking car
Master French Seams
Get to grips with a clever seam favourite for a continental finish! French seams are common in clothes for children, where the skin is extra sensitive, as the inside is completely smooth. They also create a beautiful effect on structured garments, as they
Fix a Frayed Pocket
A quick fashion fix with Amanda Bowden's classic miracle mend. The dread of torn stitching can be traumatic. Pockets are a common site of injury for catching on things, to say nothing of natural wear and tear as hands go in and out, and even the continued
Create Perfect Darts
Doyenne of DIY dressmaking, Sarah Greeff, on the perfect dart. I recently visited Bath and spent the morning at the Fashion Museum, my nose pressed against the glass, as I gawped at the construction of some of the more historical pieces. On closer inspect
