This longline throw-on by Amanda Walker is a layering wonder for those days when the weather just can’t make up its mind. It’s crafted from a lightweight viscose that feels both luxuriously slouchy and soft, and it features delicate buttoned cuffs. Advanced beginners are sure to relish this pattern challenge!
- Fabric, 3m (150cm)
- Lightweight fusible interfacing
- Small buttons, two
- Back: cut one on the fold
- Front: cut one pair
- Sleeve: cut one pair
- Front facing: cut one pair
- Belt: cut one pair
- Sleeve straps: cut one pair
- 1.5cm seam allowance used
- throughout, unless otherwise
Download the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, then print out and follow the cutting guide. Lay the front pieces on top of each other, matching the centre-back collar. Stitch the seam together and press the seam allowance open. Position the back kaftan onto the front, matching the shoulder seams. Clip to the dot marked on the front pattern piece to release the neckline, enabling the back neck and collar neck to match together.
Pin across the shoulders and neckline, matching the centre-back neckline to the seam in the back of the collar. Stitch the seam together in one continuous line. Neaten the shoulder seam allowances and press towards the front. Lay the front facing pair together, then sew the centre-back of the collar. Press the seam allowance open. Neaten the outer edge of the facing from the shoulder to the base on both sides.
Lay the kaftan flat, right side up, then position and prepare the facing around the outer edge of the collar and down each front edge. Pin and stitch in place starting at the base of the facing up around the collar, then down to the base of the adjacent front edge. At the hem edge of each facing, measure up a 7cm hem and stitch across at this measurement. Trim the bulk from the corners and turn the facings to the inside. Tease out the corners and seams, then press flat.
Turn under the neck edge of the front facing along the stitching line. Clip to the dots marked on the pattern to enable the seam allowance to be turned under and to sit along the beginning of the shoulder seams. Hand sew the folded edge to the neckline and shoulders of the kaftan. Neaten all the side seam edges on both the front and back. Match the side seams together, right sides facing. Stitch together from the underarm as far as the slit notch.
Press the seams open and continue to press the seam allowance within the slits. Fold the sleeve straps in half lengthways and sew across the ends and along the length, leaving a gap in the stitching line. Trim the bulk from the corners and turn the straps to the right side. Tease out the corners and press flat. Close the gap by hand slip stitching. At one end of each strap, make a small buttonhole to fit the buttons you are using.
Attach a small square of fusible interfacing to the wrong of the sleeves onto the small rectangles marked on the pattern piece. On the wrong side, position and stitch the plain end of the sleeve strap to this point on both sleeves. Neaten the long edges of the sleeves. Stew a row of gathering stitch around the head of the sleeves, starting from the front notch and finishing at the back. Match, pin and sew the underarm sleeve seams together, right sides facing. Press the seams open and turn the sleeves to the right side.
Pull the gathering threads up slightly and place the sleeve into the armhole of the dress. Match the side seams and the underarm seam of the sleeve together; match the notch in the centre of the sleeve to the end of the shoulder seam, then adjust the gathers to fit the armhole of the dress. Pin and sew in place, then neaten around the seam allowances of the armholes.
Press in 1cm, then another 2cm around the base of the sleeves and edgestitch the hems in place. On the right sides of the sleeves, sew a button to the centre of the stitching rectangle made by attaching the sleeve strap. Turn up the sleeve base twice and use the sleeve strap to hold the folds in place. Turn in and press 1cm at the base of the kaftan, then another 6cm. Pin in place and edgestitch across the front hem, up and down the slit, across the base to the remaining slit, then to the across to the adjacent front.
As the kaftan has no fastening, blind hem the edges of the facing to secure in place. Sew the pair of belt pieces together along the straight end of the belt, then press the seam open. Fold the belt in half lengthways and sew across the shaped ends and along the length, leaving a gap in the centre of the stitching line. Trim the bulk from the corners and turn the belt to the right side. Tease out the corners and press flat. Close the gap by hand slip-stitching.