October 2019
October 2019

Sewing Pattern

Gemma Jacket

Garments
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A smart jacket is a wardrobe essential that can be dressed up or down, and this tailored version by Amanda Walker ticks all the right boxes. It allows you to practise sewing with bouclé fabric – although a soft denim or corduroy would work equally well – plus lets you add darts and insert shoulder pads to create a sharp silhouette.

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Essentials
  1. Bouclé fabric, 1.5m (150cm)
  1. Fusible medium-weight interfacing, 50cm
  1. Two small covered shoulder pads
  1. Three buttons
Sizes
  1. 8-20
Dimensions List
  1. Front: cut one pair
  2. Back: cut one on the fold
  3. Front facing: cut one pair
  4. Back neck facing: cut one on the fold
  5. Collar: cut one pair
  6. Sleeve: cut one pair
  7. 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

    1 Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates, then cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide and transfer the markings. Stitch darts into the front pieces as marked, sewing from base to point, then press towards the centre. Use an overlock or zig zag stitch to neaten across the shoulders and down the side edges of the front and back pieces.

    2 Fuse interfacing to the front facings and one collar piece. Stitch the collar pieces, right sides together, leaving the neck edge open. Trim the bulk, then turn right sides out, ensuring that the corners are pushed out completely. Press.

    3 Pin the front pieces to the back at the shoulder seams, right sides together, then stitch. Press the seam allowances open. Match the collar centrally on the neck edge with the centre-back of the jacket, then sew together.

    4 Stitch the front facings to the back neck one at the shoulder seams, right sides together. Press the seam allowances open. Position the facing over the collar and sew along the neck, front edges and base. Pin the side seams and stitch, then press the seams open.

    5 Neaten the long edges of the sleeves. Sew a row of gathering stitch around the head of the sleeves, starting from the front notch and finishing at the back. Match, pin and sew the underarm sleeve seams, right sides together. Press the seams open, then turn the sleeves right sides out.

    6 Pull the gathering threads up and place the sleeves into the armholes, right sides together, matching the side and underarm seams. Adjust the gathers to fit the armhole, then pin and stitch in place. Neaten around the seam allowances of the armhole.

    7 Fold and press a 3cm sleeve and base hem, then hand stitch. Make three buttonholes on the right-hand side of the jacket and sew three corresponding buttons on the left. Stitch the shoulder pads in place. Attach the ends of the facing shoulder seams to the shoulder pads to stop the facing rolling out.

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