Thanks to talented Sew designer Amanda Walker, coat-making just got even easier. If you’ve steered clear of stitching jackets for your wardrobe in the past, this garment is sure to twist your arm. Don’t be daunted by the beauty of the design – this classic shape is easy to stitch and can even be made up with fabrics that don’t fray like boiled wool, avoiding the need to finish seams.
- Wool fabric, 1.5m x 2.5m
- Medium weight fusible interfacing, 1m
- Buttons, three
- Coordinating thread
- Raglan shoulder pads
- Black line: small (8-10)
- Red line: medium (10-12)
- Blue line: large (12-14)
- Note: check your bust and hip measurement against pattern to determine size
- Cutting guide
- Back coat: cut one on fold
- Front coat: cut one pair
- Front sleeve: cut one pair
- Back sleeve: cut one pair
- Front facing: cut one pair each in fabric and fusible interfacing
- Back neck facing: cut one on fold each in fabric and fusible interfacing
- Pocket: cut one pair on bias of fabric and one pair of pocket flap facings in fusible interfacing
- 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless specified.
Sew a timeless coat
1 Download and print the pattern. Cut out the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. Attach interfacing to the wrong side of the front and back neck facings and to the top flap facing part of the pockets. Position and pin the back neck facing to the front facing across the shoulders, with right sides together. Stitch together and neaten the outer edge.
2 Neaten the four sides of each pocket and side edges of the front two pieces. Turn the top interfaced part of each pocket over along the fold line and stitch down the corner that will sit nearest to the centre front of the coat. Trim the bulk from the corners and turn the pocket facings back to the wrong side. Adjust your sewing machine to a larger stitch and sew along the seam line, using a 1cm seam allowance. Pull the threads of the stitching line up slightly to help the edge of the pockets roll over to the wrong side in a consistent line, making a smooth curve to the base corners. Press the edge of the fold, then position the pockets to the notches indicated on the side seams of the front coat piece. Pin in place and slip stitch in place by hand, down the edge nearest to the centre front and across the base.
3 Neaten the shoulder edge and under sleeve edges of both the front and back sleeves. Position and pin, with right sides of fabric facing, and stitch the front sleeves to the front coat pieces. Neaten the seam allowances together, pressing the seam up towards the sleeve. Repeat for the back sleeves and back coat piece. Lay the front coat and sleeve pieces onto the back coat and sleeves with the right sides of the fabric facing, matching the shoulder edges of the sleeves together. Pin and stitch from the base of the sleeve to the neckline, then press the seams open.
4 Lay the coat out flat with the right side facing up. Position and prepare the facing around the neckline and down each front edge. Pin, then stitch in place, starting at the base of the facing, going up around the neck and down to the adjacent base front edge. At each facing measure up a 4cm hem and stitch across. Trim the bulk from the corners, clip around the neckline, and turn the facings to the inside of the coat. Under-stitch around the neckline to prevent the facing rolling out, and press flat.
5 Turn the coat wrong side out, matching the under sleeves and side seams together. Pin, then stitch in one continuous seam from the base of the sleeve to the hem of the coat, then press the seams open. Neaten around the base of the sleeves and base of the coat, press up the 4cm hems, pin, then hem in place by hand. Make three buttonholes on the right side of the front coat. Stitch three buttons to the corresponding places on the other side.