Ruffle-Trim Blouse

Ruffles are a great way to add a feminine detail to a garment and here, this top combines a classic line with a dainty trim. Amanda Walker’s pattern allows you to practise sewing darts and concealed zips as you construct a charming spring staple. This version is sewn from cotton, but the design would also work in chiffon if you leave out the facing and bind the neck and armholes instead.

Essentials

Cotton, 1m (150cm wide)

Broderie anglaise, 50cm

Lightweight fusible interfacing

Concealed zip, 23cm

Sizes

8-20

Dimensions List

Front: cut one on the fold from cotton
Front facing: cut one on the fold from cotton
Back: cut one pair from cotton
Back facing: cut one pair from cotton
Ruffle: cut two on the fold from broderie anglaise
1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

1 Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates. Cut out all the pieces according to the cutting guide, then transfer any markings. Stitch bust darts into the front as indicated, sewing from the edge to the points, then press them towards the armholes. Neaten the front, back and centre-back seam edges using an overlock or zig zag stitch. Match the shoulders on the front and back, right sides together, pin, then sew.

2 Iron interfacing onto the front and back facing pieces, then neaten at the bases. Match the front and back at the shoulder seams, pin right sides together, then stitch. Lay the top out flat with the facing on top, right sides together. Pin, then sew at the neckline. Clip the curved seams, then press it down and understitch.

3 Lay the top out as before, matching the edges between the facing and top around the armholes, then pin and sew. Clip the curves of the seam allowances then turn right side out. Tease out the neckline and armhole allowances, then press flat.

4 Match the front and back at the side seams and pin. Sew from the base to the underarm and into the facing, making sure the armhole seams are open. Stitch the side seams and the small part of the facing in a continuous line. Press open, fold the facing inside, then hand-stitch the edge to the side seam.

5 Pin and stitch the centre-back seam edges, leaving a 20cm gap at the top for the zip. Fold and press the seam allowance along the two sides, then open out. With right sides together, position the opened zip face-down, matching the teeth to the crease line in the seam allowance, then pin.

6 Using a concealed zipper foot, sew up one side of the zip to the top of the side seam, then backstitch. Sew the other side in the same way, then thread the pull through. Fold and press up 4cm around the base.

7 With right sides together, pin, then stitch the ruffle pieces to form one length, then neaten the allowance. Pin the curved edge of the ruffle along the base of the garment, matching the side seams, then stitch. Neaten, then re-fold the 4cm hem. Pin and sew just below the seam, attaching the ruffle to the blouse.

8 Neaten the raw edge at the base of the ruffle, then press up a 5mm hem and sew in place. Slip stitch the facing by hand. Fold in the seam allowance along the edge of the zip, pin and hand-sew to finish.