If structured ruffles are what your me-made wardrobe is missing, then you’ll love this pattern from our designer Amanda Walker. Made from a cotton muslin – but equally stylish in linens, too – this classic top is a year-round winner, offering the potential to master setting-in sleeves and sewing curved seams.
- Fabric, 2m (130cm)
- 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, except the outer edges of the sleeve ruffles where 5mm is used.
- Front: cut one on the fold
- Back: cut one pair
- Front facing: cut one on the fold
- Back facing: cut one pair
- Sleeve ruffle: cut two pairs
Download and cut out the pattern. Match, pin and stitch the shoulder seams of the front top to the back pieces, right sides facing. Press the seam allowances open. Match, pin and sew the shoulder seams of the front facing to the back ones, right sides together, then press the seam allowances open.
Match the outer edges of the sleeve ruffles together, then pin and sew with a 5mm seam allowance. Turn the ruffles to the right side, tease out the seam edges and press flat. Make two rows of gathering stitches across the centre of the ruffles, as indicated on the pattern. Pull up to gather, then position the ruffles into the armholes, matching the ends to the positions marked on the armholes. Pin and secure in place.
Match the neckline of the top to the facings, right sides together, then pin and stitch in place. Fold the ruffles in towards the front and back of the top. Match the armholes of the top to the facing armholes, right sides together, then pin and stitch in place. Clip around the curved seam allowance of both the armholes and neckline, and the point of the ‘V’ neck. Turn the top to the right side by threading the back top parts through the shoulders.
Tease out the seam allowance around the armholes and neckline, then press flat. Neaten the side seam edges and the centre back edges. Match the side seams together, pin and stitch from the base of the top up to the underarm, then into the open edges of the facings. Make sure that the armhole seams are open and matching when sewing this seam, and press open.
Match the centre back edges together, pin and stitch as far as the notch for the back opening. Press the seam open. Stitch the base of the back facing as far as the notch and match each edge of the facing opening to the opening of the back of the top. Stitch in place. Turn the facing back inside the top, tease out the seams and press flat.
Neaten the edges of the facings in one continuous line, right around the base of the front and back. Fold the facing back inside under the arms and hand-stitch in place to stop it from rolling out. Fold and press in 1cm around the base edge of the top, then another 3cm. Pin and edgestitch the hem in place. Make a thread chain loop at the top of the centre back opening and secure a button to the opposite edge to create the fastening.