If you’re looking to take the next step and delve into a more advanced pattern, then this classic frock by Amanda Walker is just the ticket! The Amy dress will see you through a multitude of occasions, as well as enhancing your stitchy skillset as it features a collar, tie-belt and wrap-around bodice.
- Fabric, 3m (140cm)
- Concealed zip, 30cm
- Fusible interfacing
- 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, except for the pockets where 1cm is used.
- Front bodice: cut one pair
- Right side front bodice: cut one
- Back bodice: cut one on the fold
- Sleeve: cut one pair
- Front skirt: cut one on the fold
- Back skirt: cut one on the fold
- Collar: cut two in fabric and fusible interfacing
- Front facing: cut one pair in fabric and fusible interfacing
- Back neck facing: cut one on the fold
- Pocket back: cut one pair
- Pocket bag: cut one pair
- Belt: cut two strips, 6cm x 1m
Download and print the template. Stitch the darts into the front bodice pieces. Repeat on the back bodice, then press the darts towards the centre front and back. Position and sew the side front bodice to the right-hand side of the front bodice. Stitch the lefthand side of the front bodice to the right-hand dart, matching the straight edge of the bodice to the wrong side of the dart. Neaten the edge of the darts, the right-hand dart and side bodice seam.
Position and adhere interfacing onto both facings and one collar, then trim the left-hand end of the front facing. Neaten the shoulder seam edges. With right sides facing, match, pin and sew the shoulder seams. Repeat for the two collar pieces. Trim the bulk from the corners, turn to the right side and press.
Match and pin the centre back neck and the centre back neck edge of the collar. Clip the seam allowance around the neck of the bodice. Match the front edges of the collar to the dots on the neck edge of the front bodice, then pin and stitch. Position and sew the shoulder edges of the back neck facing and the front facings, then neaten the outer edges. With right sides together and the collar in between, place the facing around the neck and the front edges of the bodice.
Stitch from one side of the wrap front, around the neck and down the opposite side. Clip the seam allowance and the bulk from the corners, then turn the facing inside the bodice and press. Hand-sew the end of the shoulder seam of the facing to the shoulder seams of the bodice.
Position and edgestitch the side edge end of the right-hand bodice to the side edge of the left-hand one. Neaten the side edges of the front and back bodices, then match together and stitch the right-hand seam from top to bottom. On the left-hand side, stitch the first 3cm of the seam under the armhole – this is the opening for the zip.
Change to stitch length five, then sew a row of gathering stitches around the head of the sleeves from the front notch to the back ones. Neaten the underarm edges on each sleeve. Match, pin and sew the underarm sleeve seams, right sides facing, then press open and turn to the right side. Pull the gathering threads up and place the sleeves into the armholes.
Match the side and underarm seams of the sleeves, then pin and sew the sleeves in place. Neaten the seam allowances of the armhole and the base of the sleeves, then fold, press and edgestitch a 3cm hem. Position the pocket bags along the curved edges at the top of the front skirt, right sides facing. Match the notches, then pin and stitch with a 1cm seam allowance. Clip the curve and turn the pocket bags to the wrong side, then tease out the seam and press.
Position the pocket backs behind the bags. Pin and stitch from the top waistline, around the bag to the side seams, then neaten the edges. Press the pockets and make two rows of gathering stitches on the front waistline. Repeat on the back skirt but gather across the waistline.
Neaten the side seam edges of the front and back skirt. With right sides facing, pin and stitch the side seams. On the left side, sew from the zip notch to the base. Press the seams open, then attach the skirt to the bodice. With right sides facing, match, pin and stitch the side seams and the centre back and front. Neaten the seam allowances, then insert the zip into the space.
Neaten the base of the skirt, then fold, press and edgestitch a 1cm hem. Make the belt by sewing one narrow end to the other strip. Fold the strip in half lengthways, then sew with a 1cm seam allowance across each end and along the length, leaving a gap in the centre. Turn the belt to the right side through the gap, tease out the corners and seams, then press. Hand slip-stitch the gap closed.