The animal print craze isn’t going anywhere any time soon, and this monochrome coat by British designer duo Posner & Posner is the perfect subtle nod to the trend. The slouchy, throw-on design is topped off with a full lining, stylish stand-up collar and two handy pockets, plus beginners will have the opportunity to stretch their sewing skillset by adapting to working with thicker fabrics, such as coating.
- Fabric, 2.5m (145cm)
- Lining, 2m (145cm)
- Fusible interfacing, 50cm
- Button, 2cm
- Front: cut two in fabric, two in lining and two in fusible interfacing up to the front facing edge
- Back: cut one on the fold in fabric and one on the fold in lining
- Back neck facing: cut one on the fold in fabric and one on the fold in fusible interfacing
- Collar: fold fabric along the diagonal bias line and place the collar pattern to fold, then cut one, and cut one on the fold in fusible interfacing
- Sleeve: cut two in fabric and two in lining
- Pockets: cut four in fabric
- 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.
1 Download and cut out the pattern, then follow the cutting guide. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the back neck facing, the collar and the front facing section of the front. With right sides together and matching the notches, pin and sew the shoulder seam of each front to the back. Press the seam open.
2 With right sides together, stitch the shoulder seam of the front and back facing, then press the seam open. Fold the collar in half, right sides together, and stitch across each end. Turn to the right side and press the collar at each end, and along the fold. Stitch the raw edges together, very close to the edge.
3 Position the edge of the collar around the neckline, with the ends of the collar at the notch indicated and matching the centre-back notch. Fold the front facing at the centre-front over the collar, continuing with the back neck facing piece. Check that the collar edge is even at the front. The distance between the end of the collar and the centre-front fold should be 5cm.
4 Pin and stitch the collar and facings in place around the neckline. Clip the curved neckline edge to the seam and trim away the excess fabric from the seam allowance. Turn the collar and facings to the right side. Press the seam so that the collar stands upright, and press the centre front line along the front of the jacket. At the back neck, understitch through all the layers from shoulder to shoulder.
5 Match the centre-notch of the sleeve to the end of the shoulder seam, right sides together. Pin and stitch the sleeves to the jacket, then press the seam open. With right sides together, pin each pocket in position at the side seams of the front and back of the jacket. Stitch a narrow seam, then press the seam away from the jacket.
6 With right sides together and matching the underarm seams and notches, pin the sleeve seam and side seams, including all around the pocket edges. Stitch from the hem of the sleeve to the top of the pocket. Continue stitching to 2cm below the top of the pocket.
7 Stitch around the pocket bag. Start stitching the rest of the side seam 2cm above the bottom of the pocket. Snip the seam allowance at the top and bottom of the pocket and position the pocket towards the front. Press the side and sleeve seams open, then press the edge of the pockets at the front.
8 Try on the jacket to check that the hems for the sleeve and the bottom of the jacket are correct, then pin both hems and press. At the hem, turn back the facing along the centre front line so that the right side of the facing is against the right side of the jacket. Stitch the facing to the jacket along the hem fold line. Trim the corner and the excess fabric from the facing. Turn the facing back into position and press.
9 To make the lining, stitch the shoulder seams of the front and back lining pieces, then press the seam open. Pin and stitch the lining sleeves in place and press the seam open. Pin and stitch the sleeve seams and side seams of the jacket lining and press the seam open. Pin and press a 1cm turning at the hem and at the sleeve ends of the lining.
10 With the right sides of the jacket and lining facing, pin and stitch the lining to the jacket all around the facing edge, matching the notches. Clip the curves and trim the seam. Turn the lining to the inside of the jacket and press the seam. Pin the lining in place around the hem of the jacket and around the end of the sleeves, then hand-stitch in place. Make a buttonhole on the right hand side of the coat and sew a button on the left hand side in the corresponding place.