Worn loose or fitted, this project by Amanda Walker gives you the perfect chance to practise belt-making skills, giving a flattering cinch that will accentuate the waistline and elongate your frame. The Jamie Blouse is the best way to achieve a dreamy silhouette for spring strolls and beyond!
- Cotton print fabric, 2.4m (114cm)
- Fusible interlining: lightweight, 50cm x 1m; heavyweight, 1m square
- Metal buckle
- Buttons, 2cm, four
- Metal eyelets, four
- 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.
- Front: Cut one pair from fabric and one pair from interfacing (line indicated on the pattern)
- Back: Cut one on the fold
- Yoke: Cut one pair
- Sleeve: Cut one pair
- Long sleeve facing: Cut one pair
- Collar: Cut one pair from fabric and cut one from interlining
- Belt: Cut two and cut one heavyweight
Download the pattern, then print and follow the cutting guide. Press the fusible interlining collar to a fabric collar piece. With right sides facing, align the collar pieces, interlining outermost, and pin. Sew around the outer edge with a 1.5cm seam allowance, leaving the lower edge open. Trim the bulk, turn to the right side, press and topstitch. Repeat 1cm in.
With right sides facing, align the front pieces with a yoke and pin. Sew the front pieces to each side of the yoke ones. Press the seam allowances into the yoke. On the right side, topstitch across the join. Sew a second line 1cm in.
Find the centre back neck of the yoke, with the shirt fronts attached, and the centre of the collar. With right sides facing, pin the centre points. Clip around the curve of the neck and pin the collar around it, positioning the front edges 2cm in from the fold line of the front facing. Sew the collar to the neck.
Affix the interlining to the front facing. Align the tops of the facings to the neck edge of the remaining yoke piece, then pin and sew. Neaten with an overlocking or zig zag stitch. Fold and press the facing along the edge of the interlining. Tuck the facing back. With right sides together, sew the first yoke to the facing top. Press the seam allowance.
Match the centre back of the yoke to the centre back of the collar. Clip around the neck edge. Pin the remaining parts of the neck and stitch, sandwiching the collar between the two yokes and facing. Turn the front facing to the right side.
Fold pleats into the top of the back piece and sew across. Match to the back of the yoke, then pin and stitch. Press the seam allowance into the yoke. Fold and press 1.5cm in across the front and back edges of the inside yoke, and hand-sew. Match the side seams, leaving an opening, pin and sew. Neaten the seam edges with overlocking or zig zag stitches.
Sewing the sleeves 1
With right sides facing, align the underarm seams and sew. Neaten the edges, turn to the right side and press. Stitch the sleeve facing seams, turn and press 1cm around the top of each facing. Pin the facing over the ends of the sleeves, matching the underarm seams.
Stitch the facing to the sleeves, sewing around the slit. Cut into the slit, turn the facing to the sleeve inside, and press. Edgestitch the facing to the sleeve, then make a row of stitching 1cm below the first. Repeat for the second sleeve.
Sew around the head of the sleeve between the notches. Pull the threads to form gathers. Position and pin the sleeves into the armholes. Stitch and neaten the armhole seam edges. Repeat for the second sleeve.
Finishing the main shirt 1
Fold and press the hem in the same way. Turn the hem back on itself at the side seams so the right sides are facing. Sew up the side seam parts of the hem on both sides of the slit, then turn to the right side; a slit should form in the side part of the hem.
Fold and press up 1cm around the hem, then another 4cm. Unfold, and fold the facing back at the base of the shirt front. Sew along the 4cm fold line in the hem. Turn the facing to the right side, and edge-stitch the hem. Make a row of stitching 1cm below the first.
With 12cm spaces, mark out the position of four buttonholes on the right-hand side of the front facing. Using the buttonhole function, make the buttonholes. On the left-hand side, sew a button to correspond.
Making the belt 1
Affix heavyweight interlining to a belt piece. Fold and press in 1cm around the two long edges and point. Around the other belt piece, fold and press in 1.2cm. Position this section on the back of the interlined piece, pin and edgestitch.
Attach an eyelet 3cm from the blunt end of the belt. Thread on the buckle and pass the prong through the eyelet. Turn the blunt end back on itself, and sew in place. Attach three more eyelets to suit your waist measurement.