This super-flattering top with its asymmetrical design and midlength sleeves is perfect for those in-between days that are neither too hot nor too cold. Amanda Waker has cleverly drafted the pattern to incorporate a fastening that nips in at the waist and is finished with a sleek tie belt. The viscose-linen mix fabric does not crease as easily as pure linen, but retains the same look and feel – smiles all round!
- Fabric, 1.5m (130cm)
- Lightweight fusible interfacing
- Hook and bar fastenings, two
- Linen or a viscose linen mix
- Back bodice: cut one on the fold
- Front bodice: cut one pair
- Back peplum: cut one on the fold
- Right front peplum: cut one
- Left front peplum: cut one
- Sleeve: cut one pair
- Front neck facing: cut one pair in fabric and one pair in fusible interfacing
- Back neck facing: cut one on the fold each in fabric and fusible interfacing
- Belt: cut one pair
- 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated
Download the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, then print. Using the guide, cut out the pieces and fuse interfacing to -the front and back neck facings. Neaten the following seam edges: shoulders, back bodice side edges, sleeve side edges and the side edges of the front and back peplums. Stitch the bust darts into the front bodice pieces and press downwards. Neaten both the side edges. Match, pin and stitch the shoulder seams of the two front pieces to the back bodice with the right sides of the fabric facing. Press the seam allowances open.
Match the shoulder edges of the front and back neck facing. Stitch and then neaten around the outer edge. Position the neck facing around the neck of the front and back bodice, matching the shoulder seams together. Pin and stitch in place. Press the seam allowance into the facing and understitch on the facing edge of the seam. Clip the seam allowance, then fold and press the facing to the inside of the bodice. Hand slip stitch the shoulder edges of the front and back facings to the shoulder seams of the bodice to prevent the facing from rolling out. Match the side seams together, pin and stitch, press the seams open.
Make two lines of gathering stitches between the notches marked on the base of the front and back bodice. Stitch a row of gathering stitches around the head of the sleeves starting from the front notch and finishing at the back notches. Match, pin and stitch the underarm sleeve seams together with the right sides of the fabric facing, press the seams open and then turn the sleeves to the right side.
Pull the gathering threads up slightly and place the sleeve into the armhole of the bodice. Match the side seams and the underarm seam of the sleeve together; match the notch in the head of the sleeve to the end of the shoulder seam and adjust the gathers to fit the armhole of the bodice. Pin and stitch in place. Overlock the seam edges together. Fold and press 1.5cm around the hem of the sleeves and machine edge stitch in place.
Position the sides of the front and back peplum together, pin and stitch. Press the seam open. Neaten the base of the peplum. Stitch together the small mitres at the point of each front peplum piece. Press up the remaining peplum hem and machine stitch. Place the peplum to the base of the bodice. Gather the stitches until the bottom of the bodice fits the top edge of the peplum. Distribute the fabric evenly, match the side seams ensuring the peplum top edge point sits exactly in line with the seam between the facing and the bodice. Stitch the peplum to the bodice.
Neaten the peplum and bodice seam edges. Fold the open end of the two front facings back over the neatened seam and stitch along. Trim the bulk from these corners and fold the facing back to the inside of the top. Tease out the seam edges and press flat. Continue the stitching line from the peplum hem up the edges of the garment, around the back neck and down the opposite side. Sew fastenings at the ends of each wrap piece, between the peplum and bodice. The left side of the garment tucking under the right and the right over the left.
Stitch the pair of belt pieces together along the straight end, press the seam open. Fold the belt in half lengthways and sew across the shaped ends and along the length leaving a gap in the centre of the stitching line. Trim the bulk from the corners and turn the belt right side out. Tease out the corners and press flat. Hand slipstitch the gap closed.