Follow in the stylish footsteps of Coco Chanel in this New Twenties bouclé coat designed by our own grande dame of dressmaking Amanda Walker. This timeless textured fabric is warm and thick, so the unfussy inter-season coat is unlined, just take care to adjust your machine when sewing layers together. Add oversized sew-on pockets and a single statement button fastening and you’re all set!
- Bouclé fabric, 2.2m (150cm)
- Lightweight fusible interfacing
- Button, 35mm
- Back: cut one on the fold
- Front: cut one pair
- Collar: cut one pair in fabric and one in fusible interfacing
- Sleeve: cut one pair
- Front facing: cut one pair in fabric and one pair in fusible interfacing
- Pocket: cut two in fabric and two strips of fusible interfacing as indicated on the pattern piece
- 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.
- Search 'Your Pattern Size Guide' for measurements
1 Download the pattern, then follow the cutting guide. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the facings,the top part of the pockets and one of the collars. Turn the face part of the pocket top over, right sides together along the fold line and stitch down the two ends.Trim the bulk from the corners,turn the pocket tops right side out and push out the corners.
2 Make a gathering stitch around the curved base of the pockets, in line with the 1.5cm seam allowance. Pull up the threads slightly to help you to control the shape while pressing the seam allowance to the wrong side. Pin the wrong sides of each packet to the position marked on the right side of each front, the hand-stitch in place from the right side with invisible ladder stitch.
3 With right sides together, join the two collars, leaving the neck edge open. Cut into the neck edge on one of the collar pieces at the two notches indicated on the pattern; this will become the top collar. Fold up this centre section of the collar along the seam allowance and press. Trim away the bulk from the corners and turn to the right side. Tease out the corners and press flat.
4 Match and pin the two front coat pieces to the back coat,right sides facing, then stitch the shoulder seams together. Press the seam allowances open. With Right sides together, match the centre of the under collar with the centre-back neck edge of the back coat. Match the notches and dots on the top collar to the notches and dots on the front coat and, keeping the centre section of the top collar open, sew the collar to the neck of the coat.
5 Match the dots and notches on the front facings to those on the front coat, right sides together, sandwiching the collar between the fronts and the facings.Stitch in place around the neck edge and down the centre-front opening. Sew across the base of the facing, 3.5cm from the base of the coat; this will become the start of the hem. Trim the bulk from the corners and clip the curve of the front neckline. Turn the facing to the inside, push out the corners and press flat.
6 Clip the seam allowance on the neck edge at the same points as the clips on the top collar. Fold the raw edges up inside the collar at the open section, pin and press the edge, then hand-stitch in place,concealing the raw edges. Hand slip-stitch the shoulder edges of the front facing to the shoulder seams of the coat. Match The side seams together, pin and sew, then press the seams open.
7 Work a row of gathering stitches around the head of each sleeve,starting from the front notch and finishing at the back notches. Match, pin and stitch the underarm sleeve seams together, right sides facing. Press the seams open and turn the sleeves right side out.
8 Pull up the gathering threads slightly and insert the sleeve into the armhole of the coat, matching underarm sleeve and side seams, and also the notch in the centre of the sleeve to the notch at the end of the shoulder seam.Adjust the gathers to fit the armhole at the top neatly, then pin and sew.
9 Fold and press the 3.5cm hem of the sleeves to the inside, hem in place.Repeat for the 3.5cm hem at the base of the coat. Make a buttonhole on the right-hand side of the coat, stitching through all layers and secure a button to the left-hand side in the corresponding place. Blind-hem the edges of the facing to the coat to secure in place.