1 Download, print and cut out the pattern from sewmag.co.uk. Position the pleat guide on the top edge of a folded lower skirt rectangle, then mark each position with a small clip and neaten the side edges. Repeat for the other lower skirt piece.

2 Using the guide, fold and pin four box pleats; the seam allowance should be showing on both edges beside the outer pleats. Machine-stitch across the top of each pleat to secure, then sew the darts to the two back yoke pieces: one will become the lining. Match the side seam on the front yoke to one of the back yokes, right sides together, and stitch. Repeat for the remaining pieces.

3 Open the seam allowances and press flat. Lay one set of yokes on top of the other, right sides together. Match the top waist edges, then pin and sew. Press the seam allowances towards the lining yoke and understitch, starting and stopping 4cm from each end. Lay the pleated rectangles on top of each other, right sides together. Match the side edges, then pin and sew together, leaving a 9cm unstitched gap at the top of the left–hand side seam to insert a zip.

4 With the right side of the yoke and skirt facing, match the open end of the yoke to the gap in the side seam. Match the side seams of the yoke and skirt together, then around to the opposite end of the yoke and the open gap in the skirt. Pin, then stitch together.

5 To insert the concealed zip into the left-hand side seam, press the seam allowances of the skirt up towards the yoke. Fold in the seam allowance along the base of the lining yoke and position over the seam, across the top of the pleats. Pin in place, sandwiching the seam allowances inside the yoke. Fold in the seam allowance on each side of the zip, then slip-stitch the lining yoke to secure. Neaten around the base of the skirt, press up a 3cm hem, then secure in place.