GreatBritishSewBee-2019
GreatBritishSewBee-2019

Sewing Pattern

Shauna Coatigan

Garments
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Is it a coat? Is it a cardigan? One thing we know for certain is that Amanda Walker's slip-on garment looks stunning in this textured bouclé fabric. With no buttonholes required, this is a great introduction for coat-making newbies, requiring just basic stitching techniques along with overlocking or zig zag stitch to neaten the seams. You could always make a waist tie to fasten it from any leftover fabric.

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Essentials
  1. Bouclé fabric 2.5m (150cm)
Sizes
  1. One size (fits 8-16, hanging accordingly to your shape)
Dimensions List
  1. Coat back: cut one on the fold
  2. Coat front: cut one pair
  3. Front & back sleeve: cut one pair of each
  4. Front facing: cut one pair
  5. Under collar: cut one on the fold
  6. Pocket: cut one pair
  7. 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

    1 Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Check your bust and hip measurement against the pattern to ensure that it will fit you, adjusting if necessary. Cut out all of the pieces according to the cutting guide.

    2 Overlock or zig zag stitch the top part of the pockets, turn over along the fold line and stitch down the corner that will sit nearest to the centre front of the coat on both. Trim any bulk from the corners, then turn the pocket facings back to the wrong side. Set your sewing machine to a larger stitch and sew a row along the seam line, 1cm away from the cut edge.

    3 Pull the threads of the stitching line up slightly to help the edge of the pockets roll over to the wrong side in a consistent line, and form a smooth curve to the base corners. When happy that the seam allowance is folding back neatly, press the edge of the fold. Position the pockets at the notches indicated on the side seams of the coat front, pin and edgestitch in place, along and across the base and up the opposite side.

    4 Pin and stitch the front sleeves to the front coat pieces, right sides together. Overlock or zig zag stitch the seam allowances together, pressing the seam down towards the sleeve. Repeat with the back sleeves and the back coat piece.

    5 Lay the front coat and sleeve pieces onto the back coat and sleeves, right sides together, matching the shoulder edges of the sleeves. Pin and stitch from the base of the sleeve to the neckline. Overlock or zig zag the seam allowance and press towards the back of the coat.

    6 Position and match the centre back of the under collar to the centre back of the coat neckline, then pin the remainder of the under collar around the neckline and stitch in place. Match the centre-back edges of the front facing pieces right sides together, pin, and stitch the centre-back part together. Press the seam open.

    7 Lay the coat out flat, right side up. Pin and stitch the facing around the neckline and down each front edge, starting at one base of the facing up around the collar and down to the adjacent base front edge. At the hem edge of each facing, fold up and press a 4cm hem, then stitch across at this point. Trim the bulk from the corners, clip around the neckline, then turn the facings to the inside of the coat.

    8 Turn under the neck edge of the front collar part of the facing and hand or machine stitch the edge to the neckline. Turn the coat wrong side out, matching the sleeve and side seams together, pin and stitch in one continuous seam from the base of the sleeve to the hem of the coat. Press the seams open. Overlock or zig zag around the base of the sleeves and the coat, press up the hems, pin, then hand stitch in place.

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