As the season transitions from summer to autumn, it’s time to start thinking about switching up the items in your wardrobe. This lovely design by Julia Claridge uses a medium-weight fabric, and the project is a great choice for anyone wanting to get to grips with darts, pleats and this season’s on-trend style – the paperbag waist. This flattering design is bound to become a wardrobe essential!
- Fabric, 2.1m (150cm)
- Zip, 20cm
- Hook and bar
- Back: cut two
- Front: cut two
- Belt loop: cut one
- Belt: cut one
- Waistband: cut one
- 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.
Download the template at sewmag.co.uk/templates, and follow the cutting guide. Stitch darts into the back panels, then with right sides facing, join the centre back seam and neaten the raw edges. Join the front panels below the zip, following the markings. Press the left and right zip facing and neaten the raw edges.
With right side up, place the zip under the right-hand folded edge; this should be set back with the zip 2.5cm above the waistband edge. Using a zipper foot, stitch the zip close to the pressed edge. Tack the folded edge on the left side so it’s in line with the seam and covering the zip.
Tack the zip tape onto the loose zip facing on the inside. Stitch close to the teeth using a zip foot, catching the zip and facing only. On the outside, tack the zip facing onto the left slightly beyond the teeth, then stitch in place. There should be a curve below the bottom of the zip. Bring the notches together at the front to make pleats.
With right sides facing, stitch together the side and inside leg seams, then neaten the raw edges. With right sides together and long edges matched, sew the short edges of the waistband, trim the seam, turn and press. Press the waistband in half along its length, then make inverted pleats in the waistband and stitch across the base.
For the belt carriers, stitch along the long edges with right sides facing, turn, then press. Cut into 5cm x 6cm pieces, then fold the raw edges inwards and press. With right sides facing and matching the pleats together, pin the waistband to the upper edge of the trousers. Stitch, then press the seam downwards.
At 1cm above the waistband seam, stitch one carrier at the centre back and four at each side seam and pleat. Make the tie belt by pressing a narrow, double-turned edge around all sides. Stitch and neaten the raw edges of the leg hems, turn a 2.5cm single-turned hem and stitch. Finish with a hook and bar at the waistband.