Introducing a luxurious Posner and Posner cover-up in a shimmering velvet knit. With this pattern, you’ll master gathers and plackets, and for correctly placed buttonholes, simply flip the template for the sleeve, cuff and placket to create right and left sets. Remember, for the neatest edges, use an overlocker or turn under a narrow hem.
- Fabric, 2m (145cm)
- Fusible interfacing, 50cm
- Small buttons, two
- Front: cut two
- Back: cut one on the fold
- Back neck facing: cut one on the fold in fabric, cut one on the fold in interfacing
- Front facing: cut two in fabric, and two in interfacing
- Sleeve: cut two
- Cuff: cut two in fabric, and two in interfacing
- Placket: cut two
- Front band: cut two in fabric, and two in interfacing
- Back band: cut one on the fold in fabric, cut one on the fold in interfacing
- 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.
Download the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, then print out and follow the cutting guide. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the back neck facing, front facings, cuffs, front bands and back band. With right sides together, pin and stitch the fronts to the back at the shoulder seam. Neaten the edges, then press the seams.
The front facing is wider at the shoulder than the back neck facing. With right sides together, pin and sew the front and back facings at the shoulder seam. Press the seam open. Neaten all outside edges and the wider part of the front facing.
Pin the facings to the front edge and back neck, right sides together, matching the shoulder seams. Sew the facing to the edge of the top all the way round. Clip the curves at the back neck and trim away any excess. Understitch the seam all around the facings.
Turn the facing to the wrong side of the top and press. Secure the extra part of the front facing in position at the shoulder seam with a few catch stitches along the seam allowance. Neaten the raw edge at the bottom of the front facing.
On the right side, topstitch the back neck facing around the neck edge from one shoulder seam to the other. With right sides together, pin each sleeve in position, matching the notches and sew. Trim the seam and neaten the edges together with an overlocker or zig zag stitch.
Neaten the three sides of the placket by turning under a narrow hem. Position the placket over the marked V position on the sleeve, right sides together. Sew along the V-shaped line pivoting at the point, then back up the other side. Cut down the centre of the V as far into the point as you can, and trim excess fabric from the seam allowance.
Turn the placket to the wrong side of the sleeve and press the edge. Fold under the finished edges of the placket and topstitch in place. With right sides together, pin the sleeve seams and side seams, matching notches and underarm seams, and sew. Neaten the seam allowance and press.
Stitch a gathering thread at the bottom of the sleeve between marked points. Fold the cuff in half, right sides together, and sew the ends. Trim the seam and corner, then turn the cuff to the right side. Press the ends of the cuff and the folded edge. Press under a 1.5cm seam allowance on one edge of each cuff. Pin the unpressed edge of the folded cuff to the sleeve edge, matching notches and pulling the gathers to fit.
At the buttonhole side, the cuff meets the edge of the placket, and at the button side, it extends by 2.5cm. Stitch in place. Press the seam allowance towards the cuff. Working from the wrong side of the sleeve, fold the pressed edge of the cuff over to meet the seam and hand-sew in place or machine-stitch close to the edge.
Make the buttonhole where marked and sew on a corresponding button on each cuff. Stitch a gathering thread around the bottom edge of the fronts and the back sections. Do not sew across the front facing, instead fold it away from the edge while you add the gathering thread.
With right sides together, stitch the back band to each front band at the side seams, matching the notches. Trim the seam and press open. Still with right sides together, pin and sew the angled tie end of each of the front bands up to the mark and across the ends. Turn to the right side and press the tie section along the seam edge. Clip to the stitching at the marked point at the end of the tie.
Fold the rest of the front and back bands in half, wrong sides together, and press along the fold to the clip point at the top of the tie part. Sew the raw edges of the band together, close to the raw edge.
Pin the front and back bands in position at the bottom edge of the front and back. The clipped edge at the top of the tie should be positioned at the point where the front facing folds. Do not stitch across the facing. Match the notches and side seams and pull up the gathers to fit the band evenly, then sew in place. Overlock or zig zag the seam together and press upwards away from the band. Fold the front facing back to the wrong side and stitch in place over the front band.