This casual shirt by Amanda Walker combines two fabrics to chic and flattering effect. It features a crisp cotton print for the upper half and a block colour crepe that skims over the midriff and is longer at the back. You’ll practise techniques such as applying fusible interfacing, attaching facings, neatening edges with an overlocker or zig zag stitch, plus making buttonholes.
- Cotton, 1.7m (112m wide)
- Crepe, 1.10m (138cm wide)
- Fusible interfacing, 30cm
- Four buttons
- Upper front: cut one pair
- Upper back: cut one on the fold
- Sleeve: cut one pair
- Collar: cut one pair
- Centre tab: cut one 4cm x 8cm rectangle
- Lower front: cut one on the fold
- Lower back: cut one on the fold
- 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.
1 Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates, then cut out all of the pieces according to the cutting guide and transfer any markings. Fuse interfacing to the facing area of the upper front pieces as indicated, then neaten the edges.
2 Neaten the shoulder and side seams on the front and back bodice pieces, pin right sides together, then sew the shoulder seams. Press the seams open. Fuse interfacing to one collar piece. Pin the collars right sides together, then stitch along the outer edge. Trim the corners, then turn right sides out and press. Clip the curve around the neckline. Pin the collar to the neck, matching the centre-back points and positioning the front edges of the collar to the notches in the front neckline, then stitch. Leave the collar pinned down.
3 Fold the facing part of the front bodice to the right side, noting the fold line indicated on the pattern, so that the collar is sandwiched between the bodice outer and the facing. Pin, then stitch along the neckline as far as the shoulder seams on both sides of the front bodice, so a small step is formed in front of each end of the collar. Trim the corners, turn the facings to the inside, then press flat.
4 Lap the folded facings over one another, right over left, matching the centre-front notches together. Pin and stitch the base of the facings together, connecting the two upper front pieces together. Match the side seams of the front and back upper pieces, right sides together, then stitch. Press the seams open.
5 Sew a row of gathering stitches around the head of the sleeves, starting from the front notch and finishing at the back one. Match, pin, then stitch the underarm sleeve seams right sides together, then turn the sleeves right sides out. Pull the gathering threads up slightly and place each sleeve into an armhole.
6 Match the side and underarm seams together, joining the notch in the centre of the sleeve to the end of the shoulder seam and adjusting the gathers to fit the armholes. Pin, stitch, then neaten the seam allowances together. Fold and press 1cm around the base of each sleeve to the wrong side, then another 3cm. Pin and edgestitch the hems in place.
7 Fold in the long edges of the centre tab twice and edgestitch to secure. Form the strip into a loop and position the two ends either side of the centre-front base of the front opening. Neaten the sides of the lower front and back shirt pieces. Fold four pleats across the top of the lower front as indicated on the pattern. Stitch across the top of the pleats to secure. Repeat for the back. Match, pin, then stitch the side seams of the lower front and back pieces together.
8 Pin the lower shirt pieces to the upper section right sides together, matching the centrefront, back and side seams. Pin, stitch, then trim the seams. Neaten the base of the lower shirt, then turn and stitch a 5mm hem. Make four buttonholes on the right side of the front opening as indicated on the pattern, then stitch four buttons in the corresponding places on the left-hand side.