This nifty throw-on from Amanda Walker will fit so seamlessly into your wardrobe, it’ll be like it’s always been there. Made in suede, the six-step pattern is suited to sewers looking to add the following skills to their armoury: inserting sleeves, clipping curves, understitching and working with hemming web.
- Suede fabric, 1.7m (150cm)
- Hemming web
- Front jacket and facing panel: cut two pairs
- Back jacket: cut one on the fold
- Side front panel: cut one pair
- Back neck facing: cut one on the fold
- Sleeve: cut one pair
- 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.
Download the pattern from www.sewmag.co.uk, then print out and follow the cutting guide. With right sides facing, match one set of front jacket panels to the front side panels. Match the notches together, pin and stitch in place. Press the seam allowances open. Position the back jacket to the prepared front pieces across the shoulders, right sides facing. Pin and sew together, then press the seams open.
Stitch the remaining set of front panel pieces to the back neck facing, across the shoulder edges; this will become the collar facing. Press the seams open. Lay the jacket out flat, right side uppermost. Place the facing around the neckline and front edges of the jacket, right sides facing the jacket. Match the shoulder seams, back neckline and front edges together. Sew in place around the neck edge and down the centre-front opening.
Stitch across the facing, 2.5cm from the base of the jacket; this will become the start of the hem. Trim bulk from the corners and clip the curve of the back neckline. Turn the facing over onto the inside of the jacket and tease out the edges, then press flat. Under-stitch around the back neck facing to stop it from rolling out. Hand slip-stitch the end of the shoulder seam of the facings to the jacket shoulder seams.
Stitch a row of gathering stitches around the head of the sleeves, starting from the front notch and finishing at the back. Match, pin and stitch the underarm sleeve seams together, right sides facing. Press the seams open and turn the sleeves to the right side. Pull the gathering threads up slightly, then place the sleeve into the armhole of the jacket.
Match the side seams and the underarm seam of the sleeve together. Pair the notch in the centre of the sleeve to the end of the shoulder seam, then adjust the easing to fit the armhole of the jacket. When you are happy, pin and stitch in place. Fold and press the 2.5cm hem of the sleeves and the same on the hem at the base of the jacket.
Secure hemming web to the hems, using our core skill panel for guidance. To fix the front facing, marry the inside edges of the facing to the outer edge of the panel seam allowance on the jacket. Pin and stitch the two edges together from the shoulder to the base of the facing.
Match the side seams together, pin and stitch, then press the seams open.