This chic design by Amanda Walker is the best way to polish up an outfit and nip in that waist of yours. Made from boiled wool, the five-step project is designed to be the perfect entryway to handstitched outerwear as the fabric doesn’t need a lining and you don’t need to fuss with stitching hems either. Plus, it means you can easily complete this pattern in just a couple of hours!
- Fabric, 2.5m (140cm)
- Bias binding, 2.5cm wide
- Medium-weight double-sided fabrics, such as boiled wool
- Front: cut one pair
- Back: cut one on the fold
- Sleeve: cut one pair
- Belt: cut one on the fold
- 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.
1 Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk, then follow the cutting guide. Lay the front jacket pieces on top of each other, wrong sides facing, matching the centre-back collar. Stitch the seam together, press the allowance open and topstitch on both sides. Position the back jacket onto the front, matching the shoulder seams right sides together.
2 Clip to the dot marked on the front pattern piece to release the neckline; this enables the back neck and collar neck to line up. Pin across the shoulders and neckline, matching the centre back neckline to the seam in the collar back. Stitch the seam together in one continuous line.
3 Open and press the seam allowance across the back neck. Position and pin a strip of bias binding over the seam allowance, then turn in both ends. Edgestitch the bias strip in place. Match the side seams on the front and back side edges, then sew. Press the seams open, then topstitch on both sides of the seams.
4 Adjust the stitch length to number five and sew a row of gathering stitches around sleeve heads, starting from the front notch and finishing at the back. Match, pin and stitch the underarm sleeve seams together, right sides facing. Press the seams open. Pull the gathering threads up slightly, then place the sleeves, matching the notches into the armholes of the jacket. Match the side and underarm sleeve seams together. When you are happy, pin and stitch in place.
5 To make the belt, fold the tie in half lengthways and sew together, leaving a gap in the stitching line to enable the belt to be turned through. Trim the bulk from the corners, turn the belt, then close the gap with a few hand slip-stitches.