Wrapover garments get a bit of a bad *ahem* rap for being at high risk of wardrobe mishaps, but the wide overlap and weightier fabric of Julia Claridge’s made-to-measure version makes it a much safer choice all round. Corduroy frays, so you’ll need to neaten all raw edges that will be exposed in the finished garment. The simple measurements and markings can be made directly onto fabric or drafted onto pattern paper if you prefer.
- Plain corduroy, 50cm
- Lining fabric, 25cm x 60cm
- Printed corduroy* Note: amount required will depend on size and width of fabric
- Note: start by taking your waist and hip measurements. The largest of these will be meas A
- Back panel: cut one (divide meas A by four, add 4cm = width) x (desired length* plus 4cm = length) on the fold from printed corduroy
- Front panel: cut two (divide meas A by four, add 12cm = width) x (desired length* plus 4cm = length) from printed corduroy
- Pocket: cut two 20cm x 27cm rectangles each from plain corduroy and lining fabric
- Waistband: cut one 6cm x (waist meas x 1.5, plus 1.3m) strip from plain corduroy
- *Natural waist to hem length
- 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.
1 Cut out all pieces according to the cutting guide. Lay the front pieces right sides together, then measure 20cm down along one edge and mark for the hip point. From the same corner, measure and mark meas B along the top, then draw a curved line from here to the hip point. Cut along this line to shape the waist.
2 Fold the back panel in half lengthways, then repeat Step 1 on the non-folded edges. On the back panel only, measure and mark 10cm along the top from the first meas B, then twice meas B for the dart. Measure 14cm down from the centre of this last section, then draw diagonal lines to the edges of it. Check you are happy with the dart position, adjust if necessary, then stitch the darts.
3 Pair up a lining and a corduroy pocket, right sides together, then measure 8cm down one long edge and mark. Draw a straight line to the opposite top corner and cut across. Stitch all around, leaving a 4cm gap on the bottom edge. Trim the bulk from the seam allowance, then turn right sides out through the gap and press. Repeat to make the second pocket so that it mirrors the first.
4 Match the front and back panels at the side seams, right sides together, and pin. Sew the side seams, leaving a 5cm gap at the top of the left-hand side seam. Lay the skirt right sides up, pin each pocket in place 12cm from the upper edge and centrally over the side seams, then topstitch.
5 Fold in and press 1cm, then a further 3cm, along the bottom and two front edges, creating mitred corners on the inside. Stitch 2.5cm in along all three edges, turning at each corner with the needle down. Fold and press 1cm over to the wrong side along each long edge of the waistband.
6 Fold the waistband strip in half lengthways, wrong sides together, then press. Unfold, then pin along the top edge of the skirt, matching the raw edges and leaving 65cm plus half your waist measurement overhanging on the side that has a gap in the side seam. Sew along the crease. Flip the waistband over to the inside of the skirt then topstitch across the entire length along the bottom of the waistband, tucking in the raw edges at each end to neaten.