If you aren't confident at stitching darts, this pencil skirt designed by Amanda Walker is a good practise piece as little mistakes will be hidden by the textured surface of your bouclé. Don't be tempted to skip the Petersham inside the waistband, as it adds shape and will prevent it from rolling or creasing as you move.
- Bouclé fabric, 1m
- Lining fabric, 1m
- Petersham ribbon, 1m
- Concealed zip, 23cm
- Coordinating thread
- Small (8-10): Waist - 68cm, Hip - 91cm
- Med (10-12): Waist - 72cm, Hip - 95cm
- Large (12-14): Waist - 87cm, Hip - 101cm
Front: cut one on the fold each in fabric and lining. Back: cut one pair each in fabric and lining. 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.
1 Download and print the pattern. Cut out all of the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. Use an overlocker or zigzag stitch along the selvedge edges of the bouclé to neaten and prevent fraying.
2 Stitch the darts at the top of the bouclé front, then press towards the centre. Repeat for the two back pieces, then lay them right sides together and stitch the centre seam, beginning at the base of the zip notch and ending at the top of the kick split. Reinforce with a few extra stitches.
3 Fold and press the seam allowance at the openings for the zip and back slit. Open it out again at the zip opening, then lay the open zip, matching the teeth with the seam allowance crease. Pin in place.
4 Change to a zipper foot on your machine and secure in place, stitching as close to the teeth as possible. Reinforce with a few extra stitches, then repeat with the other side of the zip. Carefully thread the zip pull through to the right side and pull up to close.
5 Lay the skirt front and back right sides together, then sew both side seams and press open. Sew together the lining fabric pieces as for the bouclé, then fold and stitch the seam allowance at the openings for the zip and back slit. Create a 1cm double hem at the base of the lining.
6 Place the lining, right sides facing inwards, inside the right side- out bouclé, matching the side seams and raw waist edges. Stitch around the waist edge to secure the lining and skirt together.
7 Fold and press a 1.5cm seam allowance at the top of the waistband. Fold the end of your Petersham over the top edge of the zip and back on itself, then pin it along the top edge of the skirt, matching the lower edge to the crease of the seam allowance. Stitch in place, then fold and press inside the skirt. Hand-stitch the Petersham to the lining at the zip opening, side seams and darts.
8 Create a 1cm hem on the righthand side of the kick split, then turn and press a 3cm hem at the skirt base. Fold the left side of the kick split in by 5cm so it is in line with the centre back seam and press.
9 Tuck the lining into the folded seam, then secure at the top of the kick split, beginning at the centre-back seam and making a 4cm diagonal line of stitches through all layers of the bouclé and lining. Hand-stitch the pressed hem from the corner of the back slit, with a hemming stitch, finishing on the opposite side of the slit and up the 1cm pressed line.