stitch a nautical skirt

1 Take your waist measurement to determine the length of the main skirt piece to cut. This skirt is cut the other way around to normal, as the printed border pattern runs continually along the length of the fabric. The ratio for the gathering is approximately 3-1. E.g. a 66cm waist x 3 = 1.98m. Rounded up this equates to 2m of fabric required.

2 Next decide on the length you would like your skirt to be. Add 4cm to this measurement for the hem and 1.5cm for a seam allowance around the waistline. Cut the rectangle to the required measurements. Trim a waistband strip by adding 2.5cm to your waist measurement for ease around your waist, 3cm for the overlap for the hook and bar fastening and 3cm for a seam allowance (1.5cm at each end). Cut a 9cm wide strip strip of fabric to this measurement, plus another in fusible interfacing.

3 Neaten the two shorter edges of the main skirt by overlocking or zigzag stitching. These two edges will become the side seam. Adjust your sewing machine to a large gathering stitch and stitch two rows 5mm apart along what will be the top edge of the skirt. Pull up the threads to gather, it will need to measure the same as the waistband less 6cm. Make sure that the gathers are evenly distributed.

4 Match together the side seams, ensuring the stripes correspond. Pin together, then stitch a 1.5cm seam from the base of the skirt leaving a gap at the top to insert a zip. Stitch a concealed zip into the gap left at the top of the seam, using a zip foot or a concealed zip foot. Fold and press the allowance along the two sides of the opening. Open out the seam allowance and with the right side of the fabric facing place the opened zip face down matching the teeth to the crease line in the seam allowance. Pin in place.

5 If you are using a concealed zipper foot, place the teeth of the zip into the groove and as you stitch the foot will uncurl the teeth and the stitching will be appear alongside the teeth. If stitching with a normal zip foot you will need to uncurl the teeth with your fingertips; stitch to the top of the side seam. Back stitch and then stitch the other side of the zip in place. Carefully thread the zip pull through to the right side and pull up to close.

6 Fuse interfacing to the waistband. Neaten one of the long edges of the waistband by either zigzag stitching or overlocking, then do the same on the two ends of the skirt rectangle. Pin the prepared waistband to the top edge of the skirt with the right sides of the fabric facing. Pin in place leaving the hook extension protruding from the back top side seam.

7 Fold the waistband in half lengthways and stitch the ends. Turn out and pin along the waistband on the right side of the skirt. Seal the waistband by stitching in the ditch. Fold and press up the 4cm hem and machine or hand stitch in place. Press. Add the hook and bar fastening.

8 To make the sash, cut a strip along the length of the fabric. The width and length will be dictated by the size of the fabric leftover. Ours is 12cm x 2m. Fold the strip in half lengthways, cut an angle at each end and stitch the raw edges together leaving a gap in the centre. Turn to the right side. Tease out the seam allowance and corners. Press and slip stitch the gap closed.