Featuring a useful waist tie and button-up front, this lightweight shirt will soon become a favourite on your clothes rail. Designed by Julia Claridge of Leicester-based haberdashery shop Bobbins and Buttons, her useful tutorial will introduce you to shirt-making if you’ve previously shied away from it!
- Double gauze cotton, 1.14m x 2.6m
- Lightweight fusible interfacing, 25cm
- Seven buttons,1.7cm
- Size 10: Chest 106cm, Length (side neck to hem) 89cm
- Size 12: Chest 111cm, Length (side neck to hem) 90cm
- Size 14: Chest 116cm, Length (side neck to hem) 91cm
- Size 16: Chest 121cm, length (side neck to hem) 92cm
- Cutting guide
- Collar and collar band: cut two of each from fabric and one from interfacing
- Back, back yoke and belt carrier: cut one of each from fabric
- Front: cut one pair from fabric
- Sleeves: cut two of each from fabric
- Front facing: cut one pair from fabric and one pair from interfacing
- Belt: cut two from fabric
- 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.
Sew a go-to shirt
1 Download and print the pattern, above. Interface the reverse of one collar and one collar band. Stitch the collars, right sides together, along outer edges. Clip corners, trim, turn right side out, and press. Turn lower edge of collar band (without interfacing) up. Press by 1.5cm. Match centre back raw edges, sandwich collar between bands, pin and stitch.
2 Trim the collar piece, turn right side out and press. Make a pleat at the upper edge of the back panel by bringing the notch nearest the side seam to the centre back on the left-hand side. Repeat for the right-hand side, forming an inverted pleat, and pin. Stitch across the upper edge within the seam allowance to hold in place.
3 Interface the reverse of the front facings and press the seam allowance in on the un-notched edges. Place right side up, with the raw edges and notches matched underneath the shirt front. Pin and stitch, bring the facing to the front and press. Pin the facing to the front panel, then topstitch both edges of the front facing close to the edge.
4 Join the back yoke to the lower back and front shoulders. Neaten the edges. Staystitch the neck edge slightly, within the seam allowance. Match the collar back centrally to the back neck edge. Pin right sides together (the edge with the pressed seam allowance should be inside the shirt).
5 Stitch and press the seam inside the collar band and tack the loose edge of the collar band to the shirt. From the right side of the shirt, topstitch the collar band, removing the tacking. Prepare the sleeves. Press a 1.5cm double turned hem at the wrist edge, leaving it unstitched at this stage.
6 Match the centre notch on the sleeve head to the shoulder seam and pin the sleeves to the armhole, easing slightly to fit. Stitch, neaten the edges and press seam towards sleeve. With right sides together and seams matched, join the side seams from the sleeve end (opening out pressed hem) to lower hem.
7 Neaten edges and press seam towards the back of the garment. Stitch pre-pressed sleeve edge hem. Turn long edges of belt carrier by 5mm, press. Bring edges together and topstitch both sides. Cut belt carrier into two 7cm pieces, press ends in by 1cm.
8 Place belt carrier over side seam, 14.5cm from underarm seam. Stitch both ends of carrier a few times, turn a 1.5cm double folded hem, press and stitch. Mark the buttonholes. The first will be horizontal in the collar band, followed by six buttonholes down the front.
9 Mark each buttonhole 7cm apart, then make each one. Join the centre back seam of the belt and with right sides together, stitch the short ends and length of the belt, leaving a small gap. Trim the corners, turn right side out and press. Topstitch around all sides.